What to Ask a Custom Hoodie Manufacturer Before Bulk Order
What to Ask a Custom Hoodie Manufacturer Before Placing a Bulk Order
A bulk run is decided by the questions you ask before the deposit, not the ones you ask after the boxes arrive. Before you commit a custom hoodie order, ask for the exact GSM and its tolerance, the yarn and fleece face, shrinkage and pilling grades, the graded size spec, the AQL level and inspection rule, an itemised quote, payment terms and how your tech pack is protected. A manufacturer that answers all twelve clearly is one you can reorder with confidence.
A growing streetwear label had a hit pullover and wanted to reorder 800 units for the holiday drop. They had three quotes that looked similar on price but felt impossible to compare. They picked the middle one, paid the deposit, and only at bulk did they learn the "380GSM" hoodie measured 340 on the lightest panel and the colour drifted a full shade between the first and last carton. The reorder shipped late, and a slice of it came back. None of that was bad luck. It was twelve unanswered questions.
Below is the exact checklist our own sourcing team runs before any custom hoodie bulk order. It is the same list we hand a brand before we quote, because the questions protect both sides. Ask them early, in writing, and the run gets quieter.
The Pitfall Most Brands Skip
Here is the generalized version of what went wrong above. A brand expanding a hoodie line approved a pre-production sample that felt right and signed for 800 pieces. They had never asked for the GSM tolerance, only the headline number. They had never asked how shrinkage was tested, only that it was "pre-shrunk." They had never asked which AQL level applied to their run.
By the time the bulk cartons landed, three things had drifted at once: fabric weight was light on the side panels, the charcoal dye was a shade warmer than the sealed sample, and about four percent of units failed a basic seam-check the brand ran on arrival. None of it was fraud. It was the normal variance of a run that was never pinned down on paper first. The fix is not a better factory. It is a better set of questions before the deposit.
A bulk order is won or lost in the questions you ask before the deposit, not the ones you ask after the boxes arrive. The deposit is the moment the specification gets locked.
The Twelve Questions That Protect Your Bulk Order
Group them into four blocks. If a manufacturer answers all twelve with specifics, you have what you need to reorder. If they dodge three of them, that is your answer too.
Fabric and handfeel
- What is the exact GSM, and what is the tolerance? A "380GSM" claim means little without a band, usually ±5%, and a stated test method (conditioned versus as-received). Ask for the band in writing so a light panel cannot hide inside a good headline number.
- What yarn and fleece face are we using? Combed ring-spun versus open-end, brushed versus unbrushed back, French terry versus loopback. Each changes handfeel, pilling and price. Name the construction, do not just name the weight.
- What are the shrinkage and pilling grades? Ask for the wash-test result, for example length shrinkage at or below 5% after five washes, and a pilling grade of 3.5 or better after four hours on the Martindale test. A factory that cannot quote these numbers is guessing on your behalf.
- What are the colourfastness grades? Light, rub and wash fastness. For a label shipping into the EU or US, this is exactly where cheap dye lots fail at the customer's first wash.
Fit and sizing
- What is the graded size spec, and what is the tolerance? Ask for the full grade rule and the allowance on key points: chest, body length, sleeve. A hoodie that measures true at size M but drifts at XL quietly loses your repeat customers.
- Can you cut to my block, or must I use yours? If you already have a proven block, ask whether they can cut to it. If not, ask to see their standard block and the measurement report so you know what you are buying before you commit.
Production and quality
- What is the MOQ per colour, and how does reorder timing work? For our lines the floor is 100 pieces per style and colour. Ask how the reorder lead time scales, typically 25 to 35 days for hoodies and knits, and whether a repeat runs faster when a sealed sample is already on file.
- What QC standard applies to my run? We run AQL 1.5 with an 8-step in-line and final process. Ask which AQL level, who inspects, and what the accept-or-reject rule is, so the standard is agreed before, not argued after.
- How do you hold colour and fit across reorders? A sealed shipment sample plus a retained dye lot. Without those two, your second order can drift from the first and you will not know until it is on the shelf.
Commercial and protection
- Can I see an itemised quote? Fabric, trims such as YKK-grade zippers, drawcords and labels, labour, and permit fees. A single lump sum hides the exact trade-offs you need to control your margin.
- What are the payment terms, and what is the deposit? A standard structure is 50% deposit with the balance before shipment. Ask for the same clarity so your cash flow stays predictable instead of surprising you at sailing.
- How is my tech pack and artwork protected? Who owns the pattern, and is the artwork held in confidence? For a private-label brand this is the line between a partner and a leak.
Why the questions matter more than the price
The cheapest quote is usually the one with the most unstated assumptions. Every unanswered question above is a place where the factory can quietly substitute a cheaper input. Asking pins the specification down so the price you approve is the product you receive.
Red Flags When Choosing a Hoodie Manufacturer
The questions are only half of it. The way they are answered tells you as much as the answers. Watch for these:
1. "We do not usually share the spec sheet"
If a manufacturer will not put the GSM, tolerance and trim list in writing, they are asking you to trust a number you can never verify. Walk away or write it yourself and make it part of the contract.
2. "GSM tolerance? No one has asked that before"
A factory that has never been asked for a tolerance band is a factory that has never been held to one. That is fine for one-off gifts and risky for a brand that reorders.
3. A quote with no trim breakdown
Zippers, drawcords, labels and tags are where margin and quality quietly live. A lump-sum quote lets the factory move those lines after you pay the deposit.
4. No sealed sample retained
Without a sealed pre-production sample on file, "it matched the approval" becomes impossible to prove on a reorder. Ask who keeps it and for how long.
5. Vague on certifications
If you ship to the EU or US, you will be asked for BSCI, GRS or OEKO-TEX at some point. A manufacturer that cannot name its own certifications is one audit away from blocking your shipment.
6. Pushing you to skip sampling
Sampling exists to catch the drift before bulk. A factory that rushes you past it is rushing you toward the most expensive mistake in the run.
Sampling vs Bulk: What a Hoodie Supplier Does Differently
Brands often assume sampling and bulk are the same product at different volumes. They are not. Knowing what carries over and what can move is the difference between a confident reorder and a nervous one.
First samples are sealed in our in-house pattern room in 7 to 10 days. That is the moment to check handfeel and construction, not just the sketch. When the bulk order follows, it runs 25 to 35 days for hoodies and knits, pulled from the same production pool. What carries over is the sealed sample, the retained dye lot and the graded spec. What can still move is the fabric lot itself, so a serious manufacturer reconfirms the first bulk panel against the sealed sample before cutting the full run.
| Factor | Sampling (7 to 10 days) | Bulk (25 to 35 days) |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | Prove the block, fabric and handfeel | Reproduce the approved sample at volume |
| What is locked | Graded spec, GSM, colour, trims | Same spec, held to tolerance by AQL 1.5 |
| Risk if skipped | Unknown fit and handfeel | Drift across cartons, late discovery |
| Reorder advantage | Sealed sample on file speeds the next run | Faster and cheaper once the spec is proven |
Common Questions
How many of these questions do I really need to ask?
All twelve. The cost of one missed question shows up across the entire run, not on a single unit. If a manufacturer answers them all with specifics, you have what you need; if they dodge three, that hesitation is itself the answer.
Is 100 pieces per colour enough to bulk-test a hoodie?
Yes. For our lines 100 pieces per style and colour is enough to prove the block and the fabric before you commit to 1,000. The floor is a test, not a barrier, and it protects the margin that matters most on the reorder.
Do I need my own tech pack to start?
It helps but it is not required. Many growing brands come to us with a reference hoodie and a fabric preference, and we build the spec and the pattern from there. The more complete the input, the faster the sampling and the fewer fit rounds.
What if the sampling fits but the bulk drifts?
A sealed sample plus AQL 1.5 and an 8-step process keeps drift inside tolerance, and you should ask for the inspection report on the shipment. The sealed sample is the reference the bulk is judged against, so a real drift is caught before it ships.
How long from approved sample to bulk delivery?
For hoodies and knits, bulk runs 25 to 35 days once the sample is sealed. A complete tech pack and a retained sample on file keep that window predictable rather than a moving guess.
Will my design and artwork stay protected?
Yes. The tech pack and artwork are held in confidence, and the pattern stays yours. For a private-label brand, that protection is written into the order confirmation, not assumed.
About the line
Two facilities in Guangxi and Dongguan, 20,000 square metres total, 500,000 pieces monthly capacity, OEM and ODM since 2014, with more than 1,200 brands served. Quality follows AQL 1.5 plus an 8-step process. Certified BSCI Grade B, GRS, ISO 9001 and OEKO-TEX Standard 100. FOB Shenzhen; small orders ship by LCL or courier sample line.
Ready to pin down your next hoodie bulk order? Send your tech pack or just a reference hoodie and the fabric you have in mind. We will return an itemised quote, the twelve-point checklist we use internally, and a sampling schedule with the specification locked in writing before any deposit changes hands.
